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Saturday, January 21, 2012

Why sourdough bread is worth the effort

By Shirley Welch


A sourdough loaf of bread is a a big job to make. Even James Beard, that great cognoscente of breads, hardly thought it was worth the trouble a baker had to go thru to make it. It takes days solely to produce the starter and the sour smell of it actually is terrible. Nevertheless when sourdough bread is formed just the correct way, which frankly is tough to do, its flavour is unrivalled. It's the perfect accompaniment to fondues, shellfish, stews and casseroles. A sourdough boule can be hollowed out to make a very singular soup bowl.

The starter in sourdough is burned milk and H2O which are cooled, then mixed with sugar, salt and flour. The mixture is turned into a giant bowl, covered with a cheesecloth and put in a sunny window for five days until it's bubbly and rank smelling. Then, yeast is melted in warm water and put into this brew. The bowl is again covered with a humid fabric and allowed to stand for an entire week.

After this, the chef has to bring forth a sourdough sponge, which is the starter mixed with more hot water, sugar, salt and bread flour. This is covered with plastic cover and allowed to stand until it's doubled in size. Then, more yeast is added in and the sponge has to double in size again, be punched down, kneaded and permitted to rise again. Finally, the dough's cut in half and the loaves are permitted to rise in another warm spot for another hour while the oven is preheating.

A bain marie is put on the middle rack in the stove. The bread is slashed on crown with a sharp knife, placed in loaf cooking pan, then put on the rack above the bain marie. It helps if the rack is covered with heated tiles. The loaves are able to cook for about 40 minutes. They are done when the cook taps them and they sound hollow.

Yes, all this for 2 loaves of delicious bread, but folk swear by their sourdough loaf!




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